Harris is a beautiful
island of contrasts with spectacular scenery and a unique unspoilt atmosphere. In the west
are vast expanses of white sand whilst the north and east are rugged, rocky places which
make you think you have reached the moon. There are very few trees so look out for those
in Tarbert, Borve, Horgabost and Luskentyre and make the most of them. In the Bays area,
the lunar landscape is indented with hundreds of little lochs and on a clear day you can
see over to the Isle of Skye.
Here in the Western Isles
(formerly known as the Outer Hebrides) the landscape and history of Harris, together with
the hospitality of its people provide a wonderful escape from the pressures of modern
life. With luck you may even see otters, seals, eagles or dolphins. Deer tend to keep to
the high ground during the summer, but sometimes you can see them near Ardhasaig and
Ardvoulie along the main road from Tarbert to Stornoway. In the summer months there are
many colourful wild flowers to be seen on the machair. My grandmother was born here in
Tarbert, so for me it is a very special place.
You can often see what look
like patterns on the hillsides of Harris. These are the so-called Lazy Beds (and yet life
was hard!) where the crofters used to grow potatoes and a few vegetables. They managed to
cut strips of land between the rocks and fertilise what little soil there was with enough
seaweed to provide them with a bit of something to put with the fish they caught. Today
you will still see them cutting peat for fuel.
The famous Harris tweed is
made all over both Harris and Lewis. It can be bought in many of the islands' shops and
also direct from the weavers (at Luskentyre for example or Plocrapool where Alistair
Campbell gives weaving demonstrations). Genuine Harris tweed bears the orb symbol, the
mark of the Harris Tweed Association. The wool is Scottish in origin (often from the
islands, although not always), but for it to be classed as Harris Tweed, it must be spun,
dyed, finished and woven in the Hebrides. I believe that an exhibition can be found in the
school at Drinnishader on the east coast of Harris during the summer months.
How to get to Harris
Main vehicle ferry
During the summer, a ferry runs from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Tarbert, the main village
on Harris, twice a day except on Sundays. There are fewer sailings in winter. It takes 1
hour 45 minutes to cross the Minch. Vehicle reservation required. Look out for dolphins.
Although treated as two
separate islands with distinct characteristics, Harris and Lewis form a single landmass.
This means you can drive from one to the other. The main road between Stornoway (Lewis)
and Tarbert (Harris) is 37 miles which takes about an hour by car or bus.
Vehicle ferry between Harris
and North Uist
A new Caledonian Macbrayne ferry service began in April 1996. It sails from Otternish on
the tip of North Uist via the island of Berneray to the village of Leverburgh on the
southern coast of Harris. Three or four return trips are a day are made from North Uist
(not Sundays) during the summer, but only one a day I believe over the winter (October to
Easter). Journey time: 1 hour 10 minutes. Capacity: 150 passengers, 18 vehicles. Vehicle
reservation required.
Tours and excursions
On Saturdays, in 1996 a coach tour of Lewis was operated from Tarbert to coincide with the
arrival of the 11.25am ferry from Skye. The bus took you on a circular tour of Lewis
(including Callanish, Carloway Broch, Arnol Black House and Stornoway) and brought you
back to Tarbert about an hour before the afternoon ferry back to Uig. To check if this
tour still operates during the summer months, contact Harris Coaches (tel: 01859 502 441 /
fax: 01859 550 278). 1996 price: 10 pounds.
Petrol (gasoline) is available
Monday to Saturday at Ardhasaig, Horgabost, Borve and Tarbert.
The people of the Western
Isles are well known for the warm welcome they give visitors. They will often go out of
their way to help visitors. Many of the locals will pick up hitch-hikers.
Please note that the people of
Lewis and Harris have strong religious beliefs and visitors should respect this during
their stay. This means that Sunday is a day of rest for them. Shops and restaurants are
closed so make sure you have enough food for the day. Hotels are only open to guests who
are staying there. It is not possible to buy petrol or newspapers on Sundays. There are no
planes, buses or ferries. The road signs are in Gaelic here and the language is still
spoken by the islanders.
If you are going to
self-catering accommodation on the island, it is worth bringing some food with you. The
food in two grocery shops in Tarbert comes from the mainland and depends on the ferries.
It can be expensive and not always fresh due to the time it takes to get there. Try to
find out when the deliveries arrive and you will have a better selection. Or if you are
arriving on the ferry from Skye, it might be a good idea to buy some of the basics at the
Portree supermarkets. Many of the locals make weekly shopping trips to the supermarkets in
Stornoway which is about an hour's drive from Tarbert. Not much produce is grown on the
island due to the rugged nature of the land.
Local events include the
Harris Mod (early June), Gala (mid to late July), Children's Festival (July), plus other
festivals too. Check the exact dates with the tourist office - telephone: 01851 703088 /
fax: 01851 705244.
